Used car inspection checklist for New Zealand buyers

A used car can be a great buy, or an expensive lesson. The difference usually comes down to how much checking you did before handing over the money. Here is a sensible order to work through, from the paperwork to the car itself.

1. Check the paperwork and history

• Vehicle history. Look the vehicle up using its registration or VIN on a vehicle-history service to see its registration and ownership details and any reported issues.
• Money owing. Check that no finance is owed on the vehicle by searching the Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR). If there is a security interest on the car, it can be a serious risk to a buyer, particularly in a private sale.
• Matching identification. Check that the VIN on the car matches the registration and other documents, and that the number plates and registration label are right.
• Odometer and service history. Ask for service records. For an import, ask for the auction or export information, and be cautious about an odometer history that cannot be explained.
• WOF and registration. Note the dates on the WOF label and registration, and remember that a current WOF is a snapshot, not a guarantee of condition.

2. Dealer or private seller?

Buying from a dealer, who is trading, brings legal protections, including the Consumer Guarantees Act, and dealers must display a Consumer Information Notice on vehicles. A private sale comes with far fewer protections, which is why an independent check matters even more. The Government's consumer protection website explains buyers' rights.

3. Look at the car

• Body: uneven panel gaps, paint colour differences and overspray can mean accident repair. Look for rust, especially on older and imported cars.
• Tyres: even wear and good tread (legal minimum is 1.5 mm). Uneven wear can point to suspension or alignment problems.
• Under the bonnet and underneath: leaks, fluid levels and condition, belts and hoses.
• Interior: wear that does not match the odometer, damp smells, working windows, locks, air conditioning and lights.
• Warning lights: they should all light briefly when you turn the ignition on and then go out. A missing bulb check can hide a problem.

4. Drive it

• Start it from cold if you can, and listen for rough running or noises.
• Check the brakes feel firm and the car stops straight.
• Listen for clunks over bumps and for vibration or pulling at speed.
• Test the transmission through all the gears, including reverse.

5. If it is an EV or hybrid

• Ask for the battery's state of health and how it was measured, or have it tested independently with an AVILOO battery test, which works on all makes and models of EV. See EV battery health explained.
• Check the charging port, the cables supplied and how the car charges on both slow and fast chargers.
• Ask whether any battery warranty applies and whether it transfers to you.
• Have the 12V battery tested; it is a common cause of problems.

6. Get an independent inspection

Everything above helps, but it cannot replace an expert looking underneath on a hoist and scanning the car's computers, then taking it for a thorough road test. An independent inspection tells you about hidden accident damage, worn components and stored fault codes, tests the battery if it is an EV, and gives you a detailed report to negotiate with or walk away on. See our pre-purchase inspections.

7. Negotiate and decide

Use what you found. Problems that matter can justify a lower price, or a seller fixing them. If the car has a long list of issues, or the seller will not allow an inspection, that tells you something too. This article is general information, not legal or financial advice.

Frequently asked questions